Body & Frame

Styrene Building?

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R2-D2 Builder’s Club Info

The founder of the R2-D2 Builder’s Club, Dave Everitt, actually built his droid out of styrene. I am actually having second thoughts about the clear plastic dome. I am still probably going to go with it, but the styrene dome still has a lot of potential and I would feel bad about missing out on mentioning it.

All domes fit the frames – as long as you use the standard plans – so I don’t have to change my frame size.

Dome

The Styrene Dome part run is located here. 

Frame

The Styrene Frame blueprints are located here. Note – you will need an app like 7-Zip or WinRar. 

MARS Props Composite Skirt

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Hey all, I have just been looking at this post on the R2-D2 Builder’s Club forums and I decided to have a look at it. I am going to buy this skirt (probably), so I had better do some research. I included it in my Parts List entry, and it should be a good buy.

Because of the current exchange rate between America & Australia, the skirt costs about $241.09 AUD.

Here are the tools & materials that I will need to use:

  1. Epoxy (I feel 5 min kicks off too quickly, if you use this work fast, chill in the fridge for 8 hours before using to extend time)
  2. CA Glue
  3. x4 1/4 20 screws
  4. Sandpaper
  5. Favorite Power tools

Instructions:

  1. Remove the flash from the edges of the skirt and the base plate. I may need to use a dremel if some of the flash is thicker. The base plate will only fit 1 way. This is done on purpose. Sand down the base plate so that it fits flush into the skirt. It doesn’t HAVE to be perfect, but a dip into the skirt is better than part of the base plate sticking up above the rim of the skirt. Also the flash can be sharp, and if it is all sanded smooth like you will have less blood in your R2.
  2. Remove the flash around the bolt holes. You want these flush on both sides.
    1. Make it flush on both sides. Pro tip, mark the left and right and front side of the base plate on the bottom. The base plate will ONLY fit one way.
  3. Position the base plate on the frame where it should be oriented. You should also place the skirt on top of the baseplate to get a better visual.
  4. I used some masking tape to secure the baseplate once I had it lined up. I should also test it with the skirt on it to make sure it looked right. Look at it from different angles. The skirt is NOT the same diameter as the frame base. This is normal.
  5. Use a marker or automatic center punch or screw etc to mark the location of the holes and then drill (in the case of a wood/styrene frame) a Com8-B frame you can skip this step. I recommend drilling a pilot hole first and then drilling the final hole. When you drill the final hole drill it out a tad bigger than the bolt so you have a bit of room to adjust the fitment of the skirt.
    1. Test fit the baseplate and bolts and skirt.
  6. Grind down the inside of the contact areas for the base plate on the skirt it self.
  7. Put the bolts into the baseplate from the underside of the plate so that the bolts become studs that sit above the base of the skirt and the head of the bolt is inside the skirt when it is bonded. I should use a lock washer on it. Then test fit again onto the droid.
  8. Permanently bond the bolts to the base plate only after you have tested everything. Make sure the bolts are going up the right way!!! I will use superglue and put some on the threads, then I will put more around the base of the bolt and let it cure. I will not use an accelerator because I want to get a stronger bond. Once the glue is dry, I  will reapply it. The choice of the glue is arbitrary. I could use epoxy, fiberglass resin etc.
  9. Next is bonding the skirt and the base plate. I will wrap masking tape around the lip the the skirt. This is to protect it from any spills with the epoxy I am going to use to bond it together. Before applying the tape it would use the cleaning agent (I will use acetone). The wax and grease remover would be better especially for painting later on. But make sure it is cleaned before bonding, bot the skirt and base should be cleaned.
  10. Bonding. Here you I use superglue (expanding or gel would work better, polyester fiberglass resin, epoxy etc). All will bond with the material. I should have already sanded the contact areas, and cleaned them. I should use 5 min epoxy. I will not use a piece of cardboard to mix the epoxy. That would a mistake, at least 25% of the epoxy would be absorbed into the cardboard. Use foil or something. I will use the whole tube.

The skirt will have bonded after finishing these 10 steps.

Preparation Ep. 1

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WOODWORK!

I have just started a woodworking course at school, which I am really enjoying. I applied for it because I knew it would be a good idea to get my skills up for when I started building my droid.

I am not really doing anything interesting at the moment in woodwork, but I can say that I am making a key rack.

SENNA BLUEPRINTS! – WOODWORK!

The Senna Blueprints that I am basing my body (R3-S6) off of are CS:L measurements, but I can still practice cutting the holes and shapes and whatnot out of the B.B.P.

I am going to ask my woodwork teacher, Mr. Trent, if I would be able to work on my droid for a bit in the classroom – the classroom has:

  • Circular Sander
  • Orbital Sanders
  • LOTS of tech
  • LOTS of tools

Yep, he’s got them all.

Body – Research 1

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Materials

You can build your droid from many different materials – and that is also true for the body of your droid. You can build your droid’s body out of:

  • Wood
  • Aluminium
  • Fiberglass
  • Styrene

  1. MY RESEARCH Ep.1

I have downloaded the Senna Wood Frame Blueprints from R2-D2 Builder’s Club, and they taught be quite a lot. I have since sent them over to my uncle via email and he is checking them out now.

A lot of people use a wooden frame, especially if they are using the Senna Blueprints. I am going to be wood for my frame as well. I would recommend using Baltic Birch Plywood or Birch Plywood.

DKMURPHY’s Build Log Quote

It was very difficult to find Baltic birch plywood around here. It cost me 50% more than a standard sheet of birch plywood. It was in a 5 by 5 sheet which is a PITA to put in/on a car. I finally sourced it though. Cost me about $120 for both 1/2 and 3/4 inch sheets.

Research CONT.

If you buy a 5 by 5 sheet of Baltic Birch Plywood (B.B.P.), you should cut it down to 4 by 8, maybe with a router or jigsaw. It is definitely worth more to use B.B.P. Baltic Birch is normally easy to route as well.

And that is all for now. Thanks for reading and have a good one!

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